Last few hours on Prithviraj Road

I don't know what to tell you that Stephen hasn't already said!

The past few days we've been in Delhi, which is the capital of India and has 14 million people.
The first day, we were given the afternoon to go where we wanted, so a group of us decided to visit Khan Market, which is apparently one of the most expensive markets in India. First, there were dead dogs in the alley between the inside road and the outer areas. Secondly, I can tell I will have to make an effort to feel comfortable in Indian markets. They are generally very dirty, disorganized, and the people who work in them give female tourists especially creepy looks.

It's amazing how different India is from everywhere else I've been. Delhi is very crowded and there is a very large problem with inflation, disease, and poverty. It's very striking to drive around and see all the homeless and destitute (of all ages...) wandering next to the streets. Underneath every bridge you will find many who are seeking shade, and construction sites are surrounded by those looking to steal some water from the running hoses, often to wash their clothes. In the market, I saw an old woman going through all of the trash bins, pulling out paper and assorted waste, for reasons I cannot entirely guess.
I've seen one man peeing near the same market, though I'm lucky not to have seen more.

We females have really learned about repression by being here, and Delhi is a liberal place. We cannot look men in the face, as that is seen as a come-on and invitation. We can never drink or smoke in public, and particularly never in front of elders, as that will mark us as easy, even if it is offered by someone we know. We must keep as much skin as possible on our shoulders, chests, and legs covered, or we will invite grabs and pats in inappropriate places. We must rely on the males in the group to stay with us in the evenings especially, as we cannot even discuss personal/relationship issues without it inviting unwanted attention (i.e. if someone asks what my view on dating is, i can't answer anything about it short of i don't want to talk about it).

I'm hoping to get my host mother to take me shopping for some traditional Tibetan and Indian outfits, as it will help me to blend in a little better and look a little less interesting to local men.

Also, women never drive, they always ride on the backs of even motorcycles or bikes and always side-saddle. Men definitely dominate public places, such as markets and stores. Women tend to walk and sit behind men as well. Everyone goes barefoot a lot, be it because of heat, lack of funds, or personal preference, I don't know.

Yesterday Stephen and two girls and I went to Lodhi Gardens, which is basically the couples' spot, so we were able to hold hands again (woohoo!). Oh, did I mention that it is pretty inappropriate for us to hold hands/hug/etc. in public, for us to be alone anywhere except outside, and bad for either of us to sit next to an indian of the opposite sex?
Anyway, I took some really nice pictures while at the gardens.

We also took a ride in a rickshaw, which was definitely an experience. Here there are no lanes an no rules, just go as fast as you can manage, ignore signs, and honk every time you blink to remind people you are there.
A therapist came and talked to us and said that there is a funny commercial on tv here for cell phones in which an Indian guy from Delhi is at school in America and can't sleep because it is too quiet, so he calls his mother in India who holds her phone outside. The honking, loud birds, and people put him right to sleep.
That's pretty much the way it is. There is never quiet here. Ever.

Here are some funny quotes from two Indian female doctors.

Indian toilets are ceramic holes in the ground, so don't think someone just ran away with the toilet seat.

Student: What are the signs of japanese encephalitis? Dr. Chawla: Let's not worry about that right now - just avoid it.

Lots of people in India spit and they aren't checking for dehydration - they're just gross.

(talking about bartering) It's quite an enjoyable game. It can go back and forth and remain quite friendly. It can go on or hours... endless cups of tea!

Oh, we also got stuck in an elevator yesterday! The limit was 8 people and we had 10... It was only about 15 minutes, but it was a little scary nonetheless. The situation wasn't helped by the fact that our director is claustrophobic. Best moment: So what's everyone's favorite sea creature?

On a personal note, today has been really hard for me. I wrenched my neck this morning while I was in bed and it was worse than I think I have ever done it before. It literally felt like someone was drumming on my head with their fingers. It's hurt so badly today and I'm not sure what to do about, especially since I have to carry my backpacks around tonight.
Which leads me to now and the future:

Tonight we are taking a train to Panthakunt, where we will arrive at about 7am tomorrow, from which we will take jeeps up into the mountains about 3 hours to Dharamsala. So by tomorrow afternoon, we'll be in a hotel!

We are no longer going to Tibet, which doubtless you know by now (doubtless; without a doubt.. mom will know). We are instead taking what is apparently the most difficult trek they've ever done to get to Mustang, Nepal. It is an amazingly beautiful Tibetan community very near the border of Nepal and Tibet, which takes 3-4 days to hike in and 3-4 days to hike out of, with no exceptions.
I am not going to pretend that I'm not a little disappointed to not be going to Tibet, though I'm still excited and it will still be really neat. I'm also really nervous about my feet. They're doing alright, though definitely sore and probably not ready for such a strenuous excursion. Luckily, we'll have llamas to carry all of our stuff and we'll basically have a large caravan with supplies, so all I need to worry about is carrying my daypack and walking.

We are able to make requests about our host families, and I was the first to place mine. They know most of the families, but some left Tibet only one or two years ago and are completely new to the program. The reason for this, as explained by director Manuel, is that they used to use only the same families, but His Holiness requested that they spread students around, so to speak, and use new families every year.

First, I requested to be near Stephen, partially just because I like him and partially so he can help me stretch my calves every so often, which I will especially need after traversing the rocky terrain (of course the latter was the only reason I gave, which Pam the director found acceptable). Secondly, I asked to be placed in a house with a family that doesn't speak English. I am probably crazy and making my life much harder, but I had good reasons for it (though I may be really angry with myself later). Basically, I learned in Germany that the best way to learn a language you don't know is to live with someone who doesn't speak yours. It forces you to memorize everything you possibly can in order to speak to them, not to mention that it allows you to have a little more quiet time by not having to speak to them as much. Then again... I'm realizing that I might learn a lot less about the culture if my family can't tell me about it. Shoot. Shoot shoot shoot. Oh well. I guess I'll think about this more, but I doubt I'll change. I'm willing to have a family that can't speak English, and I'd rather I had one than someone who is absolutely terrified at the prospect.

I can't wait to get to Dharamsala where it is cooler. Also, I love drinking coke from glass bottles.
Oh, I tried to load a video, which I took while Stephen and I were in our first rickshaw. Unfortunately, I can't get it to upload, so you'll just have to wait, I guess!